Day one, morning 

10.00 - Roman Cordoba

When enjoying a relaxing holiday in Cordoba, there's no need to get up too early. Enjoy breakfast at your leisure and then begin your visit to the Roman town. For, although many of us can picture the image of the Moorish Cordoba, the city's origins are Roman and date back to the second century BC, when general Claudio Marcelo settled on the banks of the Guadalquivir river to found Corduba. Although there are less traces of Roman culture in the city than of subsequent cultures, there are a few gems that are well worth a visit.

Highlights include the Roman temple - situated next to the town hall -, which is surprising for its size. Also worthy of a visit is the bridge, one of the city's most emblematic monuments that, despite being remodelled a few years ago, still has an irresistible charm, thanks to its sixteen arches (four pointed and four semicircular). By day or night it is a marvel to behold and is the image of one of the most popular postcards of the city.

12.00 - The small hanging gardens of Cordoba 

To carry on discovering the city, head towards the Calleja de las Flores, or the Flower Street, a narrow little street which is a ten minute walk away, heading towards the centre, situated next to the cathedral. This street is a real treat for the senses. What is striking is how well kept the balconies, filled with flowers and hanging plants are. Also, this little street peters out into a square from where you can experience one of the most beautiful views of the city. Three minutes from there, heading towards Avenida del Conde de Vallellano, you will find the Puerta de Almodóvar, a Moorish gate which is accessed via Calle Cairuán. 

During the Islamic era, the gate was known as the Bab al-Yawz and, although it was restored in 1802, the battlements and the adarve are almost perfectly preserved. Opposite the gate is a sculpture dedicated to Séneca, the most universal Cordoban philosopher and dramatist. It is a beautiful and unmissable corner.

First afternoon   

14.00 - Delicatessen Cordoban style

Just next to the Puerta de Almodóvar, on Calle Doctor Fleming, you will find the Mesón Juan Peña, a small but exquisite establishment and an ideal place to take a break and enjoy some delicious tapas dishes (the fried fish and the 'puntillitas' (battered fried baby squid) are delightful, accompanied by a good wine.

If you prefer somewhere more spacious and with a wider menu, you might want to try the restaurant Bodegas Campos (recommended by Repsol) (calle de Los Lineros, 32, five minutes from the Jewish quarter, by Paseo de la Ribera). It is an old wine cellar with a great atmosphere and serves excellent Cordoban cuisine. The white garlic with langoustine or de-boned bull's tail with cream of potato are a real delight.

16.00 - The Mosque, symbol of the city

The next two hours will be spent getting to know the undisputed jewel of the city, The Mezquita, or mosque, considered to be the most important monument in the Islamic West and one of the most amazing in the world. Construction began in the year 780, on the site of the Visigoth church of San Vicente, and it was extended on a number of occasions until, in the year 987, it attained its current dimensions.

The most disastrous reform in its history took place in the 16th century, under the reign of Carlos V, when part of the extension constructed under Abderramán II and Almanzor was destroyed (not without controversy) in order to build the Christian cathedral.

Its history summarises the complete evolution of the 'Omeya' style in Spain, as well as the Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles of the Christian building. You can spend hours looking around it and feel as much as though you are in an enormous mosque as inside a luminous cathedral.

It consists of two distinct areas: the porticoed patio where, rising up from under the Renaissance tower is the minaret and the prayer room or haram. Its interior is filled with a collection of columns and two-colour arcades, the chromatic effect of which will leave you open-mouthed. This is most certainly a place not to be missed. 

18.00 - The Casa de la Concha in the Jewish quarter 

Leaving the mosque, head northwards along Calle Torrijos and after five minutes you will find yourself in the Jewish quarter where you can stop to have a wander around. Its narrow streets and whitewashed houses are one of the most popular symbols of the city. Given that its dimensions are very small, the best thing to do is get carried along and discover its corners, such as the Plaza de la Concha (where you will find the beautiful Casa de la Concha, with its magnificent semicircular staircase) or the little street of el Pañuelo – next to the square–, catalogued as the narrowest street in Spain.

You can also visit the synagogue –one of the best conserved in the country-, highlights of which include the beautiful wall that supports the women's gallery, with its three arches adorned with plasterwork.

20.30 - The night lights up

The day is drawing to a close, but there is still time to dine and get a taste of Cordoba by night. It's time to head down to Calle Cardenal Herrero, 28 (on one of the corners of the Jewish quarter, next to Calle Torrijos, a couple of hundred metres from the synagogue) and try out Caballo Rojo, a restaurant where José García Marín, alias Pepe el del Caballo Rojo, will dazzle you with his lamb kidneys in wine, califal aubergines or Mozarabic monkfish.

Here you will find comfort, hospitality and professionalism, all in one. And after dinner, you should go down to Plaza de la Corredera, right in the heart of the city, where the most nocturnal Cordobans tend to hang out. There you can go from terrace to terrace looking for the bar that most grabs your attention. You might want to try Mari Luz, or Patri, where a great atmosphere is guaranteed. 

Second morning   

9.30 - Between Medina Azahara and Alcázar de los Reyes

It's your second day in Cordoba and there is plenty more to see. You will already have discovered that the city is small and that it is possible to visit it in 48 hours. But also that it is rich in history and full of places to visit. So, to start the day, you have a couple of choices: either carry on getting to know the city or travel 8 km out of town and discover Medina Azahara (the Medieval town of Abderramán III). 

If you choose to leave the city, take the A-431 road (road from Palma del Río), taking a right exit onto the CV-119 road and then left along a signposted diversion. Madinat al-Zahra' is the magnificent and mysterious city that Abderramán III ordered to be built at the foot of the Sierra Morena. Even its name holds legendary stories. 

Popular tradition has it that the self-proclaimed Abderramán III became caliph in 929 AD and after eight years in power, decided to build a palace city in honour of his favourite, Azahara. However, recent studies provide strong evidence of the reasons the caliph decided to found Medina Azahara. It is now accepted that the most probable reason for the new Medina was to project a new image of the recently created Independent Western Caliphate, the strongest and most powerful in Europe.

If you prefer to carry on discovering the city, you will not be disappointed. You might want to start with the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos (Alcazar of the Christian Monarchs). This military style Gothic building was the residency of the Catholic Monarchs for eight years and it was here that they received Christopher Columbus himself when he returned from the Americas. The building has a sombre appearance, but the patios and gardens hidden in its interior are a surprising delicacy. Taking a walk through these garden surrounded by ponds, goldfish and water lilies is the best way to start the day.

Also, you won't want to miss the Homenaje (Tribute) and Inquisición (Inquisition) towers or the Salón de los Mosaicos (Mosaic Hall). There you will find Roman mosaics discovered in Plaza de la Corredera and sarcophaguses from the 2nd and 3rd centuries. It is a small piece of paradise in the heart of the city so you should be in no hurry to leave.

12.00 - Break time ... Cordoban style

One of Cordoba's attractions are its traditional patios. So it is well worth taking a short walk (always through the historic centre of the city) to visit the most spectacular of these. Many of them are to be found in the Alcázar Viejo district, between the Alcázar you have just left and the parish church of San Basilio, although others can be found in the Santa Marina district, around San Lorenzo and Magdalena, and in the Jewish quarter. And don't miss the patios of Palacio de Viana, which are so evocative they make you want to hide away there and spend your life reading and meditating: pure beauty. 

Second Afternoon     

14.00 - Time for your last Cordoban tapas

Close to the Palacio de Viana there are a couple of little known spots which are perfect places to take a break and have some lunch. On the neighbouring street, Calle Ocaña, you will find the Taberna Rincón de las Beatillas, an ideal place to bid farewell to the city that serves up great tapas. If you are travelling with family, a better option might be to go to another neighbouring street, Calle Enrique Redel, where you can sit down to enjoy a pizza at the Pizzería El Patrón. But take note! These are not just any old pizzas. All the ingredients come directly from their places of origin and you have the option of having them cooked in a wood-fired oven. Both are great options. 

16.00 - Squares and museums

And to bid farewell to this city, how about a visit to a couple of the city's charming squares and a museum. The Plaza del Potro (Colt Square), situated in the Ajerquía district, owes its name to the Renaissance fountain which presides over it, the main decorative feature of which is a colt. Traditionally, it was a place for buying and selling livestock, as shown in the famous Posada del Potro, which is also found in the square and which was frequented on numerous occasions by Miguel de Cervantes. 

The square is also home to the Julio Romero de Torres Museum (as the song goes: “…pintó a la mujer morena…”). It is interesting to visit the museum and enjoy its main works of art, such as La chiquita piconera, Naranjas y limones, Cante hondo and Poema a Córdoba.

Before leaving, you should pay a visit to the moving Plaza de Capuchinos, the immaculate austere walls of which lead to the stone gates of the Convento Santo Ángel. In the centre of the small square is one of the city's most singular images: the Cristo de los Faroles (Christ of the Lanterns), who you can ask to ensure you return to Cordoba very soon.