Day one, morning 

10.00 - The cathedral of styles

Kick off your itinerary at the  Granada Cathedral on Gran Vía de Colón, being sure to check out the unusual and modern street lamps along the way. This unique cathedral was built on the remains of the Great Nasrid Mosque. Although the first architect commissioned to build the cathedral originally planned a Gothic structure, after the foundation had been laid the project was handed over to Diego de Siloé, who continued in the Renaissance style. 

A century later, the Baroque facade was added. Thanks to this mix of styles, the cathedral is unique and original, and a source of pride for the residents of Granada. Visitors often find themselves in awe by the white stone interior and the goldwork in the apse.

12.00 - The tomb of the Catholic Monarchs, Ferdinand and Isabella

The royal chapel attached to the cathedral is no less than the final resting place of the famous Catholic Monarchs. They chose this location as a symbol of the most difficult and costly conquest Spain undertook: the expulsion of the Arabs from the Kingdom of Granada. 

Their daughter, Juana la Loca (Joan the Mad) and her husband Felipe el Hermoso (Philip the Handsome) are also buried here. The stone carvings of their mausoleums symbolically illustrate the power these monarchs enjoyed. Their coffins, however, lie in the small and austere crypt underneath the mausoleums. 

Be sure to visit the sacristy, which today houses a museum displaying pieces of the Catholic Monarchs' legacy, such as the important collection of paintings from the Flemish, Spanish and Italian schools. The very crown worn by the monarchs -- a piece which, even today, leaves one breathless -- is on display in the museum. Truly spectacular.

Day one, afternoon 

14.30 - A meal fit for a king

You'll have spent the entire morning discovering the cathedral and its treasures, and now you deserve to eat like a king. Fortunately, some of the city's best restaurants are quite near the cathedral. Cunini is the best choice for fish and seafood, and only one hundred metres from the entrance to the cathedral in the Plaza de la Pescadería (take Calle de la Paz). With over 50 years of history, it is one of the most traditional bars in Granada. Try its famous fried octopus or home-made "lágrimas de Boabdil" dessert, named for the last ruler of the Nasrid dynasty in Granada. 

Another nearby alternative is Restaurante Sevilla, in the same plaza where you entered the Royal Chapel. This was one of the favourite restaurants of Federico García Lorca and many other key figures of Spain's history.

16.30 - Shopping along La Alcaicería and peace and quiet in the San Jerónimo Monastery

Walk off a bit of that delicious lunch by combining two quintessential tourism activities: culture and shopping. First, soak up a bit of the city's Mudejar past, in the most entertaining way possible. This time, leave the monuments behind and wander through the shops lining La Alcaicería street. It will only take you a couple of minutes to reach the street, located near the Royal Chapel, by heading down the Calle de los Oficios. 

Once a famous Arab and Christian bazaar, this quarter of narrow streets is home to countless handicraft and pottery shops. Take a deep breath and enjoy the relaxing scent of incense floating through the quarter. 

Take some time to wander a bit more, discovering the different shops and chatting with the merchants. If you enjoy a bit of price haggling, you're sure to have a good time here. It is an art unto itself! A wide range of local handicrafts, such as painted ceramic pottery called Fajalauza, can be found in a shop named after the street. 

If you're still up for a bit more, stop by the  San Jerónimo Monastery, by crossing Calle San Jerónimo from the cathedral. Take time to look at the golden cloister and to reflect in the total silence of the courtyard filled with orange trees. 

The Monastery's shop sells treasures handmade by the resident nuns. As they are cloistered nuns, you won't be able to see them....but if you're lucky, you'll hear them sing.

19.00 - Tapas, Granada-style

Head away from La Alcaicería and discover one the greatest sources of pride for Granada's residents: an evening out for tapas and small glasses of beer. Walk toward Gran Vía de Colón, where you started out this morning, and continue along Calle Almireceros. After a few blocks you'll cross Calle Elvira, the city's famous tapas area. And you won't even have to dig deep into your purse -- in Granada, every beer or drink you order comes with a free tapa (and the drinks are really quite affordable).

The bartenders make sure to give you a different tapa with each round, although, if you prefer, you can also order off the tapas menu. Who could ask for anything more?

Start your tapas tour at Bodegas Castañeda (Calle Elvira, 5), which has earned its fame thanks to the generous portions of its tasty tapas. The salmon and melted cheese casseroles are especially tasty. From here, just go bar-to-bar to make sure to try every tapa on offer.

23.00 - Granada 10, cinema-come-nightclub

After a typical dinner of Granada's best tapas, have the first drink of the night while listening to great jazz at the Bohemia Jazz Café (Santa Teresa, 17). This is a great place to catch your breath and plan the rest of the night. Another option is to stop by the enticingly-named El Harén de Arquímedes (Sol, 13) (Archimedes' Harem), where the rhythm will really get you moving.

Take the night even further at the city's most well-known nightclub, Granada 10. Once a classic cinema built in the 1940s, this nightclub has one of the best dance floors around (Calle Cárcel Baja, between Calle Elvira and Gran Vía de Colón). 

Granada also has a lively alternative music scene, so if you enjoy this particular genre, stop by Ruido Rosa. The best pop and rock of all time is there, at Calle Sol, 10. 

Another alternative is Kapital (Plaza de Gracia), with two different areas to chose from. In one, you'll hear both international and Spanish commercial music, with a bit of house and dance music thrown in -- but not too intense. Spanish and Latin beats fill the second area. Undoubtedly, something for everyone.

Day two, morning 

09.00 - La Alhambra and the Generalife Gardens

Even if you're not usually an early riser, do try to make a special effort today when heading to the spectacular Alhambra and its gardens. If you don't, you may be stuck in long queues. Plus, only a certain number of visitors are allowed in each day, depending on the time of year. However, if you plan in advance, you can purchase tickets via Internet.

Bus lines 30 and 32, leaving from Plaza Isabel la Católica, take you directly to the site. Once inside, enjoy this slice of Heaven on Earth, built as the residence for the Nasrid ruler and his court. 

The name Alhambra comes from an Arab word meaning "red or vermillion castle," most likely due to the colour of the towers and walls. Built originally for military purposes, the Alhambra was at once a citadel, palace and a small city, or medina. This threefold nature explains the many characteristics of the site. 

The earliest reference of the Alhambra as a royal residence is from the 13th century, although the fortress dates from the 9th century. The Alhambra was most likely commissioned by the Zirid monarchs in 1238.  However, it passed into the hands of the Christian court in 1492 when the Catholic Monarchs Ferdinand and Isabelle conquered the city. Emperor Charles V, who spent many months in Granada, commissioned work on the palace bearing his name, as well as some of the changes to the interior.

Almost all first-time visitors to the Alhambra marvel at how all this could have been built so long ago. Every wall, every courtyard and every fountain is truly impressive, and the site truly lives up to its reputation.

13.00 - El Albaicín

Continue your itinerary to what is undoubtedly the most charming quarter of Granada. The Albaicín is nestled at the foot of the Alhambra, only a pleasant stroll down the Gomérez hill. Once there, wander through the narrow white streets, touched with the scent of jasmine. As there are lots of hills in this quarter, you might enjoy a short break and an Arab pastry at one of the tea houses along Calle de la Calderería Nueva.

After this replenishing break, head along the narrow Calle de San Juan de los Reyes to the Chapiz hill. There you will find one of the few public "cármenes" of Granada. "Cármenes" are traditional private houses with walled gardens, offering peace and tranquillity to the residents. Carmen de la Victoria, however, is open to the public, as it belongs to the University of Granada. Stay as long as you like to soak in the beauty. 

Any visitor to El Albaicín should be sure to stop by the San Nicolás viewpoint, which offers the best panoramic view of the Alhambra and the city. This viewpoint is in a small cobblestone square outside the San Nicolás Church. In addition to the Alhambra and the Albaicín, you can catch a glimpse of the peaks of the Sierra Nevada mountain range (toward the horizon at the left) and the entire Vega de Granada floodplain. 

Day two, afternoon 

15.00 - Lunch with monumental views

Continue up the hill and turn left at the San Agustín lane to reach Las Tomasas restaurant, once a private "carmen." Take a seat in the outdoor eating area and enjoy unbeatable views of the Alhambra. Service here is impeccable, and the duck tartar is even more divine in this amazing setting. 

Another option for dining with a view of the Alhambra is the San Nicolás restaurant on the street of the same name. Pass the San Agustín lane and continue up the Tomasas hill to reach this establishment. Your palate will surely delight in the eclectic cuisine created in its antique ovens, which combines the latest trends in gastronomy with Andalusian tradition.

17.00 - Sacromonte, a magical neighbourhood

End your route in the most magical neighbourhood in the city. Its easy to find: the Chapiz hill, where you were before, is the edge of the Albaicín and the beginning of Sacromonte, along the Abadía road. This neighbourhood is known for its cave-like homes carved into the mountain (called, precisely, "cave-homes"). Wander through here and soak up the enchantment of the bulerías, traditional Andalusian songs and dances, and saetas, Flamenco verses sung during Holy Week processions. 

Zambras, small festive encounters where Flamenco music and dance come alive, can be seen every evening. These spontaneous shows are heavy with feeling and heart. You may even run into Curro Albaicín, the most famous gypsy performer in all of Sacromonte. Curro is a resident of this neighbourhood through and through, and would be happy to show you its magic.

Yet another saying tells us that the sun never gets around to setting in Granada. Truthfully, however, the sunset as seen from Sacromonte, overlooking the Alhambra and Granada, is truly majestic.