First morning 

10am - A new icon: the City of Arts and Sciences

The first thing you need to know about  Valencia is that, although it is a big city, it is well-served by public transport. You can even get the Valencia Tourist Card, which for just €16 gives you 48 hours of free public transport and discounts in a number of museums, leisure centres, shops and restaurants. 

With this in mind, if you choose to leave the car behind, you may take buses 19, 35, 95 or 40, to start your visit in the newest, most dazzling part of the city. Opened just over ten years ago, the City of Arts and Sciences is a group of buildings (Hemisfèric, Umbracle, Museo de las Ciencias Príncipe Felipe, Oceanogràfic and Palau de les Arts Reina Sofía) designed by Santiago Calatrava and Félix Candela which rise up towards the end of the river Turia, and are the Valencians' pride and joy. In these past few years they have become the indisputable new symbol of the city. Do not leave your camera at home or you will never forgive yourself. 

To complement the scientific and cultural attractions, the area has several parks, gardens and sports areas that will let you visit the city at your own pace. Two things that you should not miss: taking a look at Valencian native plant species (rock rose, rosemary, lavender, honeysuckle, bougainvillaea...) in the Umbracle (a garden that overlooks the whole area) and devoting some time to watch the enormous Foucault's Pendulum, which is 30m long and weighs 170kg, and hangs from the roof of the Science Museum. 

The Oceanogràfic is another of the main features in the complex and it certainly deserves a good couple of hours of exploration.

12pm - The Oceanogràfic, the jewel of the City of the Arts and Sciences

The Oceanogràfic  deserves a full visit. At 110,000 square meters, it is the largest aquarium in Europe. Here you can enjoy looking at the planet's main marine ecosystems, with over 45,000 animals and fish from about 500 different species. You will see dolphins, walruses, sea lions, seals, penguins, sharks, rays, sawfish and jellyfish. The building is not only large, but spectacularly designed, without visual barriers. 

Inside, you will find one of the most avant-garde restaurants in the city, the Restaurante Submarino (tel.: 961 975 656). Here we recommend the exceptional spider crab ravioli with prawns in its own juice and lemon sauce, as you sit under a striking lamp that emulates a group of jellyfish and surrounded by 10,000 fish. It is simply breathtaking.

First day, afternoon 

2pm - A paella with a view

After having devoted the first morning to the City of Arts and Sciences, return to the centre of Valencia. There, walk down Menorca street towards the sea to find Avenida de los Naranjos, and from there go down to the Malvarrosa beach. Just one kilometre long, this is the urban beach par excellence and alongside its fine sands there is a promenade lined with restaurants and cafeterias. 

In the past, this beach was frequented almost exclusively by fishermen. Later, it became a leisure area for the richer Valencian families and for some famous people such as Blasco Ibáñez or Joaquín Sorolla. While your head still full of what you have seen, this is the perfect place to take a break, have a seat and order a paella at La Pepica  (Paseo Neptuno, 2) which, with over 100 years of history, is one of the most famous Valencian restaurants. 

Do not hesitate to ask for a table on the terrace if it is a sunny day: you will be more comfortable there and you will enjoy the privileged sea views like Hemingway, Orson Wells or Ava Gardner once did. 

On this same calle Neptuno, at number 16, there is another gastronomic jewel: the L’Estimat restaurant, where the menu has over 15 rice dishes, and their speciality: all i pebre  eel and roasted pumpkin with walnuts and honey.

4pm- Between the centre and the sea

Now that you have had lunch at Malvarrosa, go for a walk to take a look at the new marina of Valencia, the envy of every other Mediterranean city. The existing port was completely done anew in honour of the Copa América de Vela in 2007 and is now one of the leisure and entertainment areas in the city. It has already been included in the latest tourist guides, if only to mention some of the architectural icons that have been built here. After the Customs building and the warehouses had been refurbished, the wonderful building Velas y Vientos was built, jointly designed by the architect David Chipperfield and the Barcelona studio b720.

Another option is to go straight for the city centre to discover its many secrets. But before you get to the maze of streets and alleys, take a walk through the Jardines del Turia. This green area is an invitation to take things at a calmer pace and it is ideal to go with the family. Here you will find sports facilities, skating rinks, a small train, bicycle circuits and, for the youngest members of the family, the Parque Gulliver: an original play area with a giant figure of the character created by Jonathan Swift. He is lying down and has been tied to the ground as told in the story, this way his hair and the folds of his clothes become slides for the children to play on, who then become the little men in the original story. 

6 pm- Traditional shopping 

After taking a breather in the gardens, you can now dive into the heart of the city . Getting lost in the streets of the historic centre will take you to places such as the quiet, pleasant Plaza de la Virgen, hidden behind the cathedral. You can also take a walk through streets such as Roger de Lauria, Correos, Barcas, San Vicente Mártir or Poeta Querol, where you will find a number of shops selling the local crafts or antique shops, full of unusual, unexpected treasures. Hand-painted fans, with ribs of carved ivory or exotic woods, are some of the most popular local crafts. But do not forget that fine china and the typical Valencian garments, covered in embroidery, which are also on sale in these shops. And while you are there, do not leave without visiting the Horchatería Chocolatería Santa Catalina (Plaza Santa Catalina, 6) to have a glass of horchata  (tiger nut milk) with some fartones  in one of the most classic places in the city, which once was a favourite haunt of Princess Isabel. 

8.30 pm- A proper finish

The day has been very busy, but you still have to wine and dine in the lively atmosphere of Valencia at night. If you would like to have dinner in a very traditional restaurant, go to the Russafa area and get a table at Morgado (recommended by Repsol) (Reina Doña Germana, 4, tel.: 963 733 508). The stewed oxtail or the lamb sweetbreads with mushrooms and young garlic will leave you just amazed and ready for the next stage.
Not far from Morgado, there is another extraordinary option: the restaurant Riff  (awarded one sun by Repsol). Here the offer is creative cuisine, and the dishes have names that will make your mouth water, like the boiled egg with Vera paprika and cauliflower, rice with sea urchin and roasted pineapple consomé with almonds and coconut.

To give the night a proper ending, we suggest going to the port area and into one of the many bars and clubs, like The Class (Santa Teresa, 2), Gabbana Beach  (Paseo Neptuno, 30) or Las Ánimas Puerto – where they claim to serve the best cocktails in town – also on Paseo Neptuno. All of these places have good music and are a guarantee of good fun until very late. 

Another area to go out at night is the El Carmen, a classic neighbourhood to go for a drink. Some of the bars have been there for a long time, like Fox Congo –soul, pop and funky music– or Johnny Maracas, perfect for those who love salsa music. Both are located on calle Caballeros, not far from Borgia, a tea room with a Tunisian decor.

Day two, morning 

10 am- La Seu, the Valencian cathedral

Our second and last day in Valencia begins with a visit to the cathedral, also known as La Seu. The church is devoted to Saint Mary, following a request of King Jaime I, and was built on the remains of an old mosque. Its three main doors all have different styles (Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque) and its octagonal bell tower, known as El Miguelete, is the city's symbol. It is 50.85 metres tall, which also happens to be the size of its perimeter. The effort of climbing its 207 steps to the top is largely compensated for by the splendid views over the city. Inside the church, do not miss the paintings from the 1400s, brought from Rome as a present from the Valencian pope Alexander VI. 

In the Plaza de la Virgen, there is the Basílica de la Virgen de los Desamparados, and not far from there, the Real Convento de Santo Domingo. This convent was built by the Dominican order in the 13th century, with the permission of King Jaime I. In the Old Town of Valencia, it is possible to find other interesting churches, like Santa Catalina, San Nicolás and San Martín. 

12 pm- The Lonja de la Seda (the Silk Market)

Five minutes away from the cathedral, you will find another place to visit: the Lonja de la Seda, the Medieval Silk Market, located in the central Plaza del Mercado. Built towards the end of the 15th century, this masterpiece of civilian Valencian Gothic style was declared a World Heritage Site in 1996. Inside the building there are true Gothic, architectural treasures, such as the monumental Column Room, the Central Tower and the Meeting Room of the Sea Consulate.

At the main entrance, also called the Gateway of Sins, there are several figures representing man's sins. On the tower there is a dungeon, once used as a jail for those who stole silk and also for unethical merchants until the authorities made their appearance. The admission is free and it closes at 1.30 pm at weekends. This is a visit that is really worth the trip.

Second afternoon 

2 pm- Lunchtime in town

It is two o'clock and your stomach begins to rumble. If we want to give it what it deserves, the best choice is to go to Plaza Horno de San Nicolás (almost beside the Lonja), have a seat and enjoy the seafood at the San Nicolás. The rockfish in pastry with seasonal vegetables and the seaman's fare with local fish justify stretching the budget a bit. You won't regret it.

In the same area, another option is La Taberna de Marisa (Caballeros, 47), an avant garde spot with great tapas, where the specialities are fried eggs with potatoes, stone grilled beef and chocolate in three textures. Another noteworthy restaurant is El Tossal (Quart, 6), where we can try market cuisine, with good rices and a dessert called 'horchata in textures'. 

4 pm- A musical walk

Leave the centre to start the final part of your short but intense stay in Valencia. Cross the river and follow the Paseo de la Alameda until you get to the Palau de la Música. Although it has surrendered the musical spotlight to the Reina Sofía theatre in the City of Arts and Sciences, this building is still one of the most emblematic in the city. It opened in 1987, and it is located by the Jardín del Turia. Its acoustics have been unanimously acclaimed. In fact, it is considered one of the most important concert halls in Europe.

Transparency is one of its main features. A large glass dome, parallel to the river Turia, is the main entrance, and it is perfectly integrated into the landscaped environment, designed by the Spanish architect Ricardo Bofill. The external light and harmony penetrate inside through the glass, creating a warm ambience. After crossing the enormous hall, you get to the various concert halls. At night, when lit from the inside, the effect is truly beautiful.

6 pm- The Fallas bid you farewell

Leaving Valencia without having seen anything related to the Fallas would be a mistake. So we suggest ending the afternoon with a visit to the Fallas Museum, the Museo Fallero  (located just opposite the Palau de la Música, on the other side of the river), with its exhibition of the ninots (giant figures) that have not been burnt during the Fallas celebration. The ninots in the museum date as far back as 1934, so it is interesting to see the evolution, both in the materials used (from cardboard to polyester), and in the figures' design. In addition to this, you can also see the posters that are part of the history of the Fallas, photographs and other elements pertaining to this particular universe. This is a most Valencian farewell and you will surely enjoy it.