Lime white: the White Towns of Andalusia

Lime white: the White Towns of Andalusia

These lands were settled by Celts, Iberians and Romans, but the deepest mark was undoubtedly left by the Arabs. Their legacy can be felt in the cobbled roads and in the scent of jasmine in the streets. A walk through the White Towns is a trip in time along roads dotted with fortresses, winding through a unique natural environment: Grazalema and Los Alcornocles parks. The provinces of Cadiz and Malaga hide the picturesque White Towns amongst mountain peaks. Their name comes from the residents' custom of whitewashing the houses, while their location comes from the need to protect themselves from ancient enemies. That is how they have been preserved from the passage of time.

Some of the best known towns on this route include Arcos de la Frontera. This town in Cadiz is located on a hilltop at an altitude of 96 metres, with the river Guadalete flowing below. Cabildo square, located at the top of the town, serves as a viewpoint. There you will find an imposing castle: an ancient Muslim fortress that, from 1493 to the 18th century was the residence of the Dukes of Arcos. Today it is private property. Beside it is the church of Santa María, built on top of an old mosque. It took six centuries to complete.

The steep incline makes a casual visit advisable, heading down from on high to lose yourself in a labyrinth of narrow streets and patios. In the houses there are also signs of a noble past. The magnificent residence of the Counts of Águila or the Mayorazgo Palace, which houses the city's oldest patio inside, are proof of that.

The narrow streets give shelter to a number of churches and convents. Today, only one of them remains operational: Las Mercedarias. Although it is a cloister convent, the nuns make delicious cakes and pastries that they sell to visitors to the town.

No one should leave Arcos without taking in a sunset from one of the viewpoints. The Abades viewpoint, for example, offers a lovely landscape, with the church of San Agustín in the background.

Mountains with history

We leave Arcos and follow the road that will take us to some of the 19 remaining White Towns. The first one is 20 kilometres away: Algar, known for having a church in an unexpected Mexican style.

The route also takes us to towns such as Prado del Rey, El Bosque or Ubrique, famous for its hand-crafted leather. There is also Villaluenga del Rosario, which served as a refuge for the bandits of the 19th century. Zahara de la Sierra is a national monument, as well as a charming oil-producing town, crowned by an Arabic castle that was unassailable for centuries. Beyond the Zahara reservoir is Grazalema. Located at the foot of the natural park of the same name, this town has a well known traditional textile industry.

On the eastern end is Torre Alháquime, a small, peaceful village with steep, very picturesque streets. And back in Arcos, closing the circle, it is worth stopping in Bornos, visiting its lake and touring the streets and gardens that rise up around the Fontanar fortress.

In addition:

- If you are travelling as a family, on Saturday you can come and see the Yeguada del Hierro del Bocado ecuestrian show, in Jerez.

- If you like nature, visit Parque de Doñana making your way through the Guadalquivir from Sanlúcar de Barrameda.

- If you prefer sport, you can follow a route through Los Alcornocales by Mountain Bike.

- If you are looking for culture, visit the Tavira Tower in Cadiz, the first tower in Spain to have a «dark room» for sneakily observing the town.