The passage of the Sil through the Ribeira Sacra is quite a sight. The river, which comes from Bierzo and travels until meeting up with the Miño, seems a never-ending blue snake hounded by stone giants. At many points on its route, the difference in level between the river and the mountains reaches 300 metres.

The Cañones del Sil canyon act as a natural frontier between the provinces of Lugo and Orense for 35 kilometres. On both sides, the mountainsides have been transformed by man into vineyards laid out as superimposed terraces. These vineyards are currently grouped together as the Ribeira Sacra Designation of Origin, with some of the most highly prized vines in Galicia.

There are several natural viewpoints from where you can observe the course of the river. Perhaps the most recommendable, and also the least visited, is the Mirador del Duque, in the municipality of Monforte de Lemos, capital of Ribeira Sacra. The viewpoint is situated on the left bank, in Lugo.

Views over As Penas de Matacás and Castro Caldelas 

From this vantage point in front of us, now in Orense, we can see population centres such as El Collado and San Pedro de Baños, and As Penas de Matacás, a promontory which dominates one of the meanders of the Sil. In the background, on the horizon, we have Castro Caldelas, with the silhouette of its castle highlighted. The fortress was built between the 14th and 16th centuries and is one of the best examples of the feudal power the lords exercised in the area for many years.

A path starts from the viewpoint which runs between the vertically positioned vineyards. Travellers can walk or drive among these vineyards until reaching the river bank. However, after this you have to turn back and what was downhill turns into a steep climb. The aim is to reach the road that leads to Castro Caldelas.

The Mirador del Duque is not the only viewpoint in Ribeira Sacra. In fact, just opposite, in As Penas, there is another. And, on the same bank, in Doade, we have the Mirador de Pena do Castelo, beside San Mateo chapel. In Doade there is one of the river ports for catamarans which run different tourist routes along the Sil. There is also another river port in Santo Estevo. In Parada del Sil, also in Orense, we have Los Balcones de Madrid, another viewpoint over the canyon.

Mediterranean microclimate in Galicia 

The phenomenon of so many fruitful vines on walls almost hanging in space has an explanation. The Sil canyon has its own Mediterranean microclimate, much milder than the Continental-Atlantic climate of inland Galicia. This favours vine-growing and even growing olives and oranges, rare in other areas.

La Ribeira Sacra (sacred river bank) owes its name to the amount of monasteries and chapels covering its hills. Today it is better known for the wine from its wineries. To try it, there is nothing better than to sit down for a meal. In Castro Caldelas we can find the Caldelas Sacra restaurant (tel.: 988 203 423), where wine can be served with a good Galician rapini broth, or a hearty stew. On the other side of the Sil, in Lugo, we recommend travelling to Monforte to try the sea food croquettes in the O Grelo restaurant (tel.: 982 404 701), of course, with a glass of house wine, Don Bernardino, of the Ribeira Sacra Designation of Origin.